Wheels & Tyres

Focus on the spoke roots — where each spoke meets the rim band and the hub — because that's where fatigue cracks initiate on cast aluminium wheels. Look for discolouration, stress whitening, or paint separation along a spoke line rather than general surface scratches. A reputable seller should provide close photos of the spoke roots specifically; if they only show the face of the wheel, that's worth noting.

Going one width wider than stock on the rear generally works — a 180 instead of a 160, for example — but it shifts the tyre profile and changes the tipping point slightly in corners. Going wider on the front has more impact: too wide and it fouls the mudguard or lower leg, and steering weight changes noticeably. Always check the maximum tyre width spec for your wheel and recheck clearances with the wheel fitted before riding.

Spoke wheels need periodic tension checks (every 5,000 to 10,000 miles) and run tube tyres because the spoke nipples pierce the rim bed. Cast (mag) wheels are tubeless-compatible and essentially maintenance-free other than cleaning, but they can't be repaired if fractured — unlike spoke wheels where individual spokes are replaceable. On rough UK roads, cast wheels are the lower-maintenance choice; spoke wheels are the more repairable one.